Click on the images for a closer look.
dsp-10-front.jpg		Photo of the rig - complete with lettering utilizing Adobe Photoshop - eventually the box will be painted white and have black lettering.
dsp-10-rear.jpg		Photo of the rear panel - again - the lettering is in the photo only.
dsp-inside01.jpg		Inside looking towards the front panel. I'm looking at putting another connector on the main board so I can disconnect the leds. With a connector, I will be able to permenintly mount the two led boards.
dsp-inside02.jpg		Inside looking towards the rear panel. You will notice the two TO-220 regulators on the rear. This is where I mounted the 5V and 9V regulators after removing the 5V regulator from the DSP processor board.
dsp-inside03.jpg		Another view of the inside front panel. You will note I have a 1/4" jack for headphones on the front panel and a 1/8" jack on the rear panel for either external speakers or walkman style headphones.
dsp-inside04.jpg		With this view of the inside with the front panel on the left, you can see the difference the added space makes. The box is made of 1/8" aluminum which I tig welded together. - Sometimes it's handy to be able to combine different hobbies. I also have a small machine shop.
dsp-inside05.jpg		You can see the inside of the DSP processor. I still have to purchase two additional feed-thru caps to complete the box. I drilled small holes which I soldered solid 12AWG wire to provide gounding posts for both the inside and outside wiring.
dsp-inside06.jpg		A couple of points - The photo labels the two regulators on the rear panel. You will note, I brought the DSP 5V to a spare pin on the accessory connector (other wires yet to be added). On the bottom of the board, I moved the DSP 12V jumper wire and ran it from P108-7.
dsp-inside07.jpg		Inside view looking forward without the DSP box.
dsp-inside08.jpg		A top view looking inside.
dsp-processor.jpg		A view of the finished DSP box. You will note, I placed the capacitor C221 where the 5V reg use to be.