Click on the images for a closer look.
dsp-shield01.jpg		Construction of the Shield Box starts with the sides of the box. Here two of the sides are held with small parallel clamps to a piece of square metal (this happens to be a metal lathe tool bit). Two of these were constructed.
dsp-shield02.jpg		The two sets of sides were then connected together.
dsp-shield03.jpg		The actual soldering technique creates a welded appearance. I used a 1/16 inch solder tip and allowed the solder to build up. I did not trace back to smooth out the joint as it was unnecessary. I did make sure to apply enough heat to allow the solder to flow onto the pc material and not create a cold solder joint.
dsp-shield04.jpg		Here's my first mistake. If you take a close look at the DSP Processor, I've already removed the two audio jacks. I had pre-drilled the holes on the bottom of the box with the DSP board centered. I did not take into account the jacks extending past the edge of the board. I should have offset the holes slightly. - Oh Well!
dsp-shield05.jpg		Here is where I discovered the above mentioned mistake. In trying to fit the sides to the bottom with the board mounted, I could not get enough space for the audio jack side to solder to the bottom. You will note, I did not solder the sides to the bottom yet - that comes later.
dsp-shield06.jpg		Here I am clamping the TOP of the box to the sides. It is easier to solder the brass nuts to the sides without the bottom of the box on. You'll see why in the next few photos. Center the sides on the top panel - mark the top panel with a label indicating the edge which lines up the the feed-thru caps.
dsp-shield07.jpg		Now slide a thin piece of steel (I used a feeler gage) between the lid and a corner. Place one of the brass nuts and solder it in place.
dsp-shield08.jpg		Now you can mark the location of the hole on the top lid. Here I use a hole transfer punch.
dsp-shield09.jpg		Just a photo of the sides and top completed. You will note I used 1/4 inch male/female threaded standoffs for the processor board. Later, I used Loctite to keep them assembled on the 1" standoffs. Still later, I find this is my second mistake in making the board. The 1/4 inch standoffs are too tall and I end up taking off the 5V regulator as it prevents the top lid from being attached. The standoffs should be no bigger than maybe 1/8" with the supplied pc material. In a way, it works out since the 5V regulator and the 9V regulator gets moved to the back panel of the rig and thus removes a source of heat from the shielding box.
dsp-shield10.jpg		Now, clamp the the box together. Make sure you attach the top first so the sides don't get out of square while soldering the bottom of the box to the sides.
dsp-shield11.jpg		Here's the completed box.